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Orchid Care

Emergency Room - "Orchid Entrance"

It occurs in the life of every orchid enthusiast… And regardless of the noblest of intentions, we all eventually confront a 'crisis of the crop'. Although growing care problems can easily occur, it's surprising how many growers seem so helpless to care for the most commonplace problems and end up 'bedside' to see the demise of their plant. So it seems to me a good idea to establish 'crisis central'. This page deals with the most frequent care and culture issues that growers may encounter in certain genera. I'll break it down according to genus, and then the most typical problem with a recommended cure.

Phalaenopsis
Cattleya
Paphiopedilum
Oncidium
Not Enough Light

PHALAENOPSIS CARE

Bacterial Leaf Rot -This generally appears as a slight discoloration of the leaf. (Do not confuse with high light exposure that results in a lighter shade of green over the exposed areas). Eventually left unchecked, the infected spot increases in size with irregular boarders, turns grayish in color and is physiologically soft and mushy.

Immediately cut the leaf back to healthy tissue, using a clean and sterile tool. Treat the cut surface with a good bactericide, ground cinnamon or even mouthwash. Place the plant in a location with good air circulation - Your objective is to dry and seal the wound as quickly as possible.

Crown Rot - The very same problem as above, however, with greater ramifications calling for radical action.

Remove the uppermost leaf or leaves, which have no doubt rotted at the point of attachment to the plant. Dig into the crown of the plant with a clean sterile tool, removing all the diseased tissue. Treat with a bactericidal agent and allow for fast drying. Hope for the best. May I add that I dealt with this problem 10 months ago - I did not save the plant. But not having the heart to throw out this once beautiful orchid, it sat on the bench all this time and just recently developed a keiki.

Bacterial Root Rot - Another common malady. In mild cases or in the earliest stage you will notice a slight shriveling of the lower leaves. Over -watering is one cause but there are many.

Un-pot your plant. You will no doubt find an abundance of dark, soft, useless roots (PIC) and maybe even some decomposing media. Remove the media and all the rotted roots; they will be quite soft so a little tug and they will separate from the plant. Pot up the plant in a smaller and clean pot. Emphasis on smaller! We determine the correct pot size by the root mass, not the leaf span. Remember that…It's on the test! Withhold water for a few days to allow the roots a chance to seal and heal from any repotting damage. Try watering less or change to a more porous media.

Leaf Burn - The over exposed area will initially have a white/gray appearance. Stay alert; the damaged tissue may eventually develop a secondary infection.

CATTLEYA CARE

Bacterial Leaf Rot - In this genus leaf rot will appear as soft black tissue, which spreads very fast. Fortunately, while this problem is not common, it does happen and requires quick response.

Cut the diseased area back to fresh, green, healthy tissue. Treat with any bactericide. Those mentioned in the treatment of Phals work fine. With radical leaf loss the plant will look disfigured but you will still have the plant to bloom another day.

Bacterial Root Rot - This seems to occur more frequently in juvenile plants rather than adults, personally speaking.

In any event, remove all the rotted roots. Repot in fresh media. Withhold water for a few days. If you're experiencing this problem with mature plants, either water less or switch to a more forgiving and porous media.

Bud Blast (in sheath) - I find this problem occurs when relocating plants - particularly when there exists a sudden temperature/light differential. Condensation will cause the buds in the sheath to develop a bacterial rot. Admittedly, bud blast does happen without an obvious explanation.

Bud Blast (emerged buds) - The plant has either been allowed to excessively dry out, or an atmospheric condition interrupts the development of the buds and they eventually drop.

Blind Sheath - No buds developing? Either the plant was lacking in light or the plant could be a late bloomer. My greenhouse probably has 100 or more, empty sheaths that developed in July and won't bloom until November or December, so I'm use to it!

PAPHIOPEDILUM CARE

Black Leaf Tips - My new nemesis. I created this problem in my own collection by a combination of too much fertilizer and not enough fresh water. I hate trimming Paph leaves. So unsightly! Never happened before this last growing season.

Bacterial Root Rot, Leaf Rot, Loss of New Growths - Refer to the suggested care for the same issues in the above listed genera.

ONCIDIUM CARE

Black Spot - A little unsightly and rather scary for the uninitiated grower; however it's commonplace in this genera and related alliance. Particularly prevalent in the popular Oncidium Sharry Baby.

Black Leaf Tips - Too much fertilizer, not enough fresh water. Possibly poor air circulation.

Shriveled Pseudobulbs - Not enough water, poorly potted, or root rot. See anything that may pertain to you? If you can isolate and identify with any of the above, then the corrective path should be obvious. At this point I recommend you going 'diagnostic'.

Not Enough Light

How many times have you bought a plant, and the blooms were so beautiful and they lasted forever, but now you just can’t get it to flower anymore! Me personally, I believe lighting, or more appropriately, the lack of light may be the # 1 reason for the failure or success with orchid blooms. Lighting may seem like such a simple matter once understood, but to the novice or “newbie” as we call ourselves, it’s a concept that’s not easily presented in a very straightforward manner, or easily applied for that matter.

One problem many first time orchid growers encounter, such as I did, is totally misunderstanding the orchids and trying to grow them to our own concept of orchids in terms of light. To the first time orchid grower I say, “Don’t grow it like you think an orchid should be grown.” This sounds weird, but all too many believe that these plants should be grown in dark, hot, rain forest-like conditions. I know I killed my first few orchids thinking this way.

My success has been to grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and trying to honor the plants temperature restraints without stressing the plant. How does the first-timer know how much light to provide if they’ve never done so before? This is where it gets really tough.

There are a few helpful keys, but not at all fail-safe. First, suggesting where to grow the plant is helpful. I like to recommend a location that is supplied with light from dual directions, i.e. southwest or southeast windows. I’m also honest, if someone only has northern exposure…their chance for re-blooming the plant is pretty low and I tell them so. Of equal importance, that well-lit, cozy little spot that worked so well during the colder months is considerably less effective during the warmer months. The sun is simply too high in the sky; much less light enters during this time, leaving higher-light orchids a little on the deprived side and less likely to re-bloom. During this temporary “shade” period, I would recommend growing the higher-light demanding plants outside, particularly the cymbidiums, cattleyas, vandaceous, and oncidium, among others.

Another common conception is that the color of the leaves will reflect whether or not the plant is getting the proper lighting, and of course, for the most part, this is true. The problem here is that experienced growers know what to look for in terms of the various shades of green for each genera. The first-time orchid grower probably has no idea as to what is right or wrong, and the learning process takes a while. If you don’t get it right the first six months, you will lose a flowering period. Very frustrating, and the world loses another orchid grower! So grow with the greatest amount of light possible, without burning the plant, and you will be pleasantly rewarded year after year.

And if you have any questions, please feel free to email me at any time,

Happy growing,

Mike

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