Orchids of WickfordOrchids and Orchid Supply |
It's really just a matter of time before the perpetual and persistent questions regarding the Phalaenopsis orchid come forth: "Now that my orchid has finished flowering, what do I do with this flower stalk?" And, "How do I get it to bloom again?"
May I add this often comes with the explanation that the plant came from a big box store and had no name tag! But in order to be fair to all, many legitimate orchid sources also practice the no-name routine, or offer a numbered tag only. For shame! But I first need a name in order to give the very best correct advice!
But I’ll offer a few generalities and some specifics.
I prefer to take the simplistic approach to answer these questions. My rationale is that these are nothing more than plants, unlike others only in the respect of the enchanting flowers they produce. And in my opinion, there is nothing mysterious about orchids…nothing. Though, if you try to grow them like an onion or a brussel sprout, they can be really mysterious! Simply provide them with the specific cultural and environmental conditions dictated by the genus and they will grow and flower routinely.
Anyhow, to the issue:
Phalaenopsis Culture:
First, cut the spent flower stalk or inflorescence about one-inch from the base with a sharp sterile tool. If you concerned about infection, treat the open wound with cinnamon or rubbing alcohol. Undoubtedly someone along the line will claim cutting so low is a mistake. While it’s true that by cutting only half ways down you have about a 60% chance of inducing another bloom, those secondary flowers will not be of the quality of the originals and takes strength out of the plant. A young plant blooming for the first time should never go through this!
Next, unpot the plant and carefully evaluate the root system. How do I do this you may ask? And why should you? Well, nothing good will come of a plant with a compromised depleted, root system. First sign of trouble is that you may notice a shortened flower/bud life. The second sign of trouble is floppy leaves. The plant is not taking up water, not with bad roots, and it will not sustain or thrive. And it will die!
So remove the plant from the pot. Look real close. If you find black or brown mushy root, remove them - all of them. If the roots are white, off-white and green you are okay… as is the plant.
There’s no telling how long the plant has been in that mix so it would be a good time to repot. As for the green-gray external roots hanging out of the pot, tuck them inside the pot. If they are too long for the pot, trim them down to size. For future reference, external roots are not necessarily indicative of a plant that needs repotting, but rather simply the nature of the plant.
Repotting:
Use a fresh quality medium that allows for both moisture retention and air flow. Choose the pot size according to root mass, not leaf size. Place the plant in the center of the pot. Add styrofoam peanuts for drainage if you are so inclined, then fill in the pot with the fresh media bringing it up to the neck of the plant, or base. Press the media in as you work to keep the plant stable in the pot! The plant will not establish itself unless it’s firmly anchored. This is very important, actually critical, and… ON THE TEST! It must be SNUG!
Plastic pots work fine… Clay pots breath and dry out quicker which in turn requires watering more frequently, but they work fine.
Light: Good bright light, for at least 6 hours, the more the better!
Water: Keep moist, not wet. Use luke-warm water.
Happy growing,
Mike
Orchids of Wickford
|
Office: |
401-884-4695 |
|
© Copyright 2003-2008 Orchids of Wickford
| Site Design: Orchid Web Services |